Priest Lake Veterinary Hospital Newsletters

Newsletter for July 2003

In this issue:

* ADVANTIX
* NEW ARRIVAL AT THE PENNINGTON HOUSEHOLD!
* RABIES IN TENNESSEE
* SUMMER PET SAFETY
* EMERGENCY PET PREPAREDNESS
* PET FIRST AID KIT

BABY PENNINGTON  ("JEFFERSON ROYCE")
BORN JUNE 24!...7lbs. 15oz...

Mom, Baby, and Dad all very happy and doing well!

RACOON RABIES DISCOVERED IN TENNESSEE

Raccoon rabies was recently confirmed for the first time in Tennessee. This particularly dangerous form of rabies is a viral infection that can affect the nervous system of any mammal, including humans. The disease is almost always fatal to both people and animals. Raccoon rabies spreads rapidly and infects large numbers of raccoons. The disease often spreads to other
wildlife and pets, making human exposure a real concern. To address this problem, the USDA/APHIS/Wildlife Services and the Tennessee Department of Health are participating in a combined federal and state agency program, to keep this animal epidemic from spreading further westward by eliminating raccoon rabies in northeastern Tennessee counties.

The oral rabies vaccine bait consists of a square block made from a compressed mixture of fishmeal and fish oil known to attract raccoons. The vaccine (dyed pink) is inside a plastic packet that is inserted in the middle of the block. Baits are distributed from vehicles or airplanes. Most of the baits will be consumed about five days after being distributed. People should tell their children to leave the baits alone. Pet owners are asked to keep their dogs and cats inside or on leashes so raccoons can eat the baits.

Rabies: Five Ways to Protect Yourself and Your Family:

* Do not feed, touch or adopt wild animals, and be cautious of stray dogs and cats. Rabid animals do not always appear ill or vicious!
* Teach children to leave wildlife alone. Be sure your child knows to tell you if an animal bites or scratches them.
* Have your veterinarian vaccinate your dogs, cats, or ferrets against rabies. Keep pet vaccinations up-to-date.
* Tightly close garbage cans. Open trash attracts wild or stray animals to your home or yard.
* Feed your pets indoors; never leave pet food outside as this attracts wildlife.
* Call your doctor and your local health department for advice if an animal bites or claws you. Report the incident immediately!

SUMMER PET HEALTH SAFETY TIPS

Leave your pets at home: Don't let that eager look as you pull out the keys cloud your judgment. Even if you park in the shade and there's a nice breeze blowing outside, the temperature inside a car can shoot up to dangerous levels within minutes (120 degrees or higher!) even with the windows down. Unlike humans, pets cannot perspire to cool themselves. The movement of air into and out of the lungs allows them to maintain their normal body temperature. Panting and salivation are outward signs that your
pet is overheating. When humidity and temperature exceed beyond the point at which these cooling mechanisms can maintain body heatstroke results which - and that can mean permanent brain damage or even death to your pet.  So don't take chances with your pet's life - leave him at home!

Shelter:

Dogs and cats need to have a cool place to stay when the summer temperatures soar, either inside or out. When it's really hot, the shade from a tree will not keep your pet cool enough. He needs a doghouse or other shelter to protect from the heat. Dogs and cats can get sunburned just like people. Their ears and noses which are not protected by thick fur are especially susceptible.

Water:

Make sure your pet always has access to cool, clean water, especially in the summer heat. Refill overturned bowls and freshen water, but never give your pet ice water, which can shock the system, and cause severe upsets.

Beach and Pool:

If you take your pet to the beach, be sure to provide ample shade as well, and hose him down after he has swum in the salt water.
Protect your pet's feet from the hot sand or pavement. Dog's and cat's foot pads are very sensitive to heat and can easily blister.
While many pets love to swim, chlorinated water irritates your pets eyes, and heat and sunlight around a pool are intense. Never leave your pet unattended around a pool. Once in, a dog cannot get out without help, and may soon panic and drown.

Ticks and Fleas:

Carefully go over your pets body at least once a week to check for fleas, ear mites and tiny bumps or cuts. Bring your pet to the
vet for a spring/summer check-up and use a good flea and tick repellant that your veterinarian recommends. This can come in the form of a dietary supplement or a powder or spray.

Hair is a natural insulator whether the it is warm or cool. In the summer, an animal's coat insulates against sun, heat and insect bites. Regular brushing removes dirt and loose undercoat, which cleans and cools your pet.  When you brush, check around the ears, between toes, along the legs, at the lower abdomen and base of tail.

Travel:

If you plan to take your pet on a long car trip, take him on several short trips to condition him for the journey. Travel can be very
stressful for a pet: try to eliminate as much of the stress as possible.  When taking your dog in the car have your pet ride completely inside the car with you, just like any other member of the family. Pets allowed to ride with their heads out the window and those relegated to the back of a pick-up truck are in danger of injury from debris embedding itself in their eyes, nostrils, ear canals, and throat. Pets riding in the back of a pick-up truck can overheat from the sun off reflected roadways or be injured during a rough ride, or actually be thrown out onto the road, if you brake suddenly.

Exercise:

Dogs are naturally designed for sprinting, not for uninterrupted running or jogging. During such exercise, the body temperature rises faster than excess heat can be dissipated. In the summer, exercise of any kind should be cut back and limited to the cooler, early morning or later evening hours.

EMERGENCY PET PREPAREDNESS

It's 3:00 A.M. You're shocked awake by the doorbell. You stumble to the door and open it to see a police officer. He warns you an out of control fire threatens your community. You have 10 minutes to evacuate your house and head for safety. You've got to prepare yourself, your family, and your pets and clear out fast!

Would you be prepared for this situation? What about a disaster that gives no obvious warning, like a severe earthquake? If a fire, flood, earthquake, storm, or other disaster ever strikes your community, you might not have access to food, water, electricity, and phone service for days, or even weeks. You may have to leave your home suddenly, or stay in your house for a period of time.

By taking time now to store emergency food, water, and other essential supplies, you can provide for your entire family, including your furry loved ones. Stay Cool!

If you have to leave home suddenly, collect your wits and your pets. The behavior of pets may change dramatically after an earthquake or other disaster. Normally quiet and friendly cats and dogs may become aggressive or defensive. Watch animals closely. If your animals are outdoors, bring them inside (place a leash on dogs). Your pet is very attuned to your emotional state. Try to keep your cool so your pets don't panic. Speak firmly but calmly. Once they are in the house, you may want to place them in a separate room or in carriers so they don't become panicked by all the activity.

If you are being directed to an emergency shelter, note that your pets may not be allowed into these shelters for health and space reasons. In this case, prepare an emergency pen for pets in your home that includes at least a three-day supply of dry food and a large container of water.

If you cannot locate your animals and have to go, leave as much water and food inside or outside for them as possible. (It is a good idea to have a feeder and waterer on hand that will last for several days or more.) Also place a sign on your door, in case emergency workers in the area find your pet. Include an address and phone number that will be available, for example, that of a close relative or friend.  If you're prepared, you can load your short-term (three days or more) emergency store into your car, load the pets, and go within minutes.

Don't Leave Home without It: Disaster Pet Supply Kit

In an emergency, there's no time to gather food from the kitchen, fill
bottles with water, grab a first-aid kit from the closet and snatch a
flashlight and a portable radio from the bedroom. You need to have these
items packed and ready in one place before disaster hits.
Pack at least a three-day supply of food and water for yourself and your
animals, and store it in a handy place. Choose pet foods that are easy to
carry, nutritious, and ready-to-eat.

In addition, pack these items for your pets:

Pet first aid kit
Copies of health records
Pet food and treats
Pet vitamins
Food/water dishes
Can opener, disposable utensils
Pet food recipe book
Pet first aid kit
Blankets/towels/bedding
Pet hygiene items (brush, shampoo)
Pet carrier(s) with ID tag
Collar/ID/leash (dogs)
Pooper scooper (dogs)
Litterbox and litter/scooper (cats)
Collar/ID, harness and lead (cats)
Toys
Cleaning supplies

MAKE YOUR OWN PET FIRST AID KIT!

I recommend the following:

1 Durable waterproof container (a small plastic toolbox works well)
1 Pet first aid manual
1 Card with a list of veterinary and emergency phone numbers
1 Campers blanket
1 4" kit scissors
1 3" kit tweezers
8 Antiseptic swabs
2 Sting stop swabs
1 25ml no bleed
1 Tourniquet
1 Bottle of antiseptic for wounds
1 10cc dosage syringe
1 Eyewash
6 3"x3" sterile gauze pads
10 3"x3" non sterile gauze pads
1 5"x9" abdominal pad
1 2"x 5yd conform gauze roll
10 cotton tip applicators
4 safety pins
1 Large multi-purpose pad
1 Pair of vinyl gloves
1 1"x 2.5yd roll of adhesive tape
1 Large water resistant nylon container
8 emergency drinking water rations - 125ml ea (5 yr shelf life)

Pet ID

It is very important that your pets can be identified in case you are separated from them. Make sure cats and dogs have a collar with identification tag, even if they have had a chip implant. (In an emergency, scanning devices may not be available.) Also be sure to put an ID tag on your pet carriers. Include emergency contact numbers as well as your own.

Another good idea is to place pet emergency stickers on your windows at home, to notify emergency crews that you have pets inside that should be recused. These are available at many pet stores.

Traveling with Pets

Always place cats in a carrier when traveling, even short distances. You may want to place your dogs in carriers as well. You can give them a few drops of Rescue Remedy (a natural herbal combination that calms nerves) before you leave.

Be sure your pets are wearing their collars and ID tags and that their carriers have ID tags as well with emergency contact numbers.  If your pets will travel in a carrier, it is a good idea to have a water container inside the container with a small amount of water (to prevent spillage). Many carriers come with plastic dishes that attach to the door.

Stay-at-Home Preparedness

If the disaster forces you to stay home and be self sufficient, you'll need to have emergency stores of pet food and supplies.

Water: The Absolute Necessity

Stocking water reserves and learning how to purify contaminated water should be among your top priorities in preparing for an emergency. You should store at least a two-week supply of water for each member of your family, including pets. Everyone's needs differ, depending upon age, physical condition, activity, diet, and climate. A normally active person should drink at least two quarts of water per day. Hot environments can double that amount. You need additional water for food preparation and hygiene. Store at least one gallon per person, per day and one to two quarts per animal, depending on size and type.

If your supplies begin to run low, remember: Never ration water. Minimize the amount of water your pets need by reducing their activity and keeping them cool.

How to Store Emergency Water Supplies

You can store water in thoroughly washed plastic, glass, fiberglass, or enamel-lined metal containers. Never use a container that has held toxic substances, because tiny amounts may remain in the container's pores.  Plastic containers, such as soft drink bottles, are best. You can also purchase food-grade plastic buckets or drums.

Before storing your water, treat it with a preservative, such as chlorine bleach, to prevent the growth of microorganisms. Use liquid bleach that contains 5.25 percent sodium hypochlorite and no soap. art of water (or two teaspoons per 10 gallons), and stir. Seal your water containers tightly, label them and store them in a cool, dark place.

Hidden Water Sources in Your Home

If a disaster catches you without a stored supply of clean water, you can use water in your hot-water tank, in your plumbing, and in ice cubes. As a last resort, you can use water in the reservoir tank of your toilet (not the bowl), but purify it first.

Shutting Off the Water

Do you know the location of your incoming water valve? If you hear reports of broken water or sewage lines, shut if off to stop contaminated water from entering your home. Be prepared to do this.

Emergency Outdoor Water Sources

If you need to seek water outside your home, you can use the following sources: Rainwater Streams, rivers, other moving water
Ponds and lakes Natural springs

Be sure to purify the water before drinking. Avoid water with floating material, an odor, or dark color. Use saltwater only if you distill it first.

Food: Preparing an Emergency Stockpile

If activity is reduced, healthy pets can survive on less than their usual food intake for an extended period. Food, unlike water, may be rationed safely.

Store the dry and canned foods your pet is accustomed to eating. Familiar foods are important. They are less likely to cause your pet digestive problems and can give them a feeling of security in time of stress. Also, canned foods won't require cooking, water, or special preparation.  Following are recommended short-term and long-term food storage plans.

Food Storage Tips

Keep food in the driest and coolest spot in the house-a dark area if possible. Keep food covered at all times. Open food bags/boxes or cans carefully so that you can close them tightly after each use. Wrap biscuits in plastic bags and keep them in airtight containers. Inspect all food containers for signs of spoilage before use.

Short-Term Food Supplies

Even though it is unlikely an emergency would cut off your food supply for two weeks, you should prepare a supply that will last that long. A two-week supply can relieve a great deal of inconvenience and uncertainty until services are restored.

The easiest way to develop a two-week stockpile is to increase the amount of pet foods you normally keep on your shelves. You may already have a two-week supply of food on hand. Make sure you include a manual can opener and disposable utensils.

How to Store Your Short-Term Stockpile

Keep canned foods in a dry place where the temperature is fairly cool-not above 70 degrees Fahrenheit and not below freezing. To protect bagged/boxed foods from pests and extend their shelf life, store them in tightly closed cans or metal containers.

Be sure to rotate your emergency pet food supply. Use foods before they go bad, and replace them with fresh supplies, dated with ink or marker. Canned foods should be rotated at least once or twice per year. Check the pet food packages for expiration dates; use and replace them before they expire.  Place new items at the back of the storage area and older ones in front.

Your emergency food supply should be of the highest quality possible. Inspect your reserves periodically to make sure there are no broken seals or dented containers.

Long-Term Pet Food Supplies

In the unlikely event of a military attack or some other national disaster, you may need long-term emergency pet food supplies. The best approach is to store a variety of dried and canned foods with large amounts of staples from which you can make pet food.

Pet food shelf life varies. Here is a general guideline:

Canned food = 2 years from manufacture date (some are 3 years).
Dry food = 1 year from manufacture date (except Lamb-6 mos).
Treats = 1 year from manufacture date.

For more information about your specific pet food brand, contact your local pet food retailer or the manufacturer.  For a long-term supply over three years, you can store bulk foods that you can make into pet food. Bulk quantities of grains, like wheat and corn are fairly inexpensive and have nearly unlimited shelf life. Add protein sources, such as dried meats and eggs, as well as vitamin, mineral, and protein supplements your stockpile to assure adequate nutrition. (Vitamin C can be stored almost indefinitely.)
Store bags/boxes and bulk grains in sealed cans or plastic buckets.

It's a good idea to store a book with good pet food recipes, like Dr. Richard Pitcairn's Natural Health for Dogs and Cats.

Shelf Life for Long-Term Food Storage:

The following may be stored for several years (in proper containers and conditions):

Wheat
Vegetable oils
Corn
Soybeans
White rice
Bouillon products
Powdered milk (in nitrogen-packed cans)
Vitamin C



Supplement Your Long-Term Stockpile

The above staples offer partial nutrition, but your pets' protein needs are higher than yours. You can supplement these ingredients with commercially packed air-dried or freeze-dried meats and other goods.



Following is an easy approach to long-term food storage:

1. Buy a supply of bulk staples.
2. Build up your stock of canned goods until you have a two-week to one-month surplus. Rotate it periodically to maintain a supply of common foods that do not require special preparation, water, or cooking.
3. From a sporting or camping equipment store, buy commercially packaged, freeze-dried or air-dried meats and other foods. Although costly, this will be your best form of stored meat, so buy accordingly.

Nutrition Tips

In a crisis, it will be vital that you maintain your pet's strength.
So remember:

Feed at least one well-balanced meal daily.
Make sure they get enough liquid.
Give them a vitamin/mineral supplement.
Make sure they get enough exercise.

If the Power Goes Out

If the electricity goes off, first use perishable foods from the refrigerator. Next, use foods from the freezer. To minimize the number of times you open the freezer door, post a list of freezer contents on it. In a well-filled, well-insulated freezer, foods will usually still have ice crystals in their centers (meaning foods are safe to eat) for at least three days. Finally, begin to use nonperishable foods and staples.

To learn more about how to prepare for emergencies, contact your local or State Office of Emergency Management, or write:

Federal Emergency Management Agency
P.O. Box 70274
Washington D.C. 20024

Sources:
Federal Emergency Management Agency,
Dr. Judy Stolz, DVM